A Sinner in Sin City

Day 89

Current Location: Las Vegas, Nevada (USA)

Total Countries visited: 2

Total Miles Driven: 13,571

I apologize for the longer-than-usual delay between posts, but it just happens that I'm in Vegas right now (YEAH BABY), have been here for 6 days now and haven't found the time to get online until now !!! Vegas is truly the world's capital of distraction...

Since my leave from Portland I have seen an incredible number of sights, each more amazing than the last... I have been mostly following the Oregon Coast South to California, then followed the Nevada / California border all the way to Vegas.  So to keep in the Vegas spirit (meaning keep it short and sweet so I can go back to the tables ASAP and win some of my money back before I leave for good), I'm going to do this one in bullet-point fashion.  Enjoy !

Crater Lake

This lake is perched up some 7,000 feet up in the mountains - and is in fact a huge volcano crater filled with water, with mini-volcano islands scattered in the middle of the lake.  It is incredibly beautiful.

Volcano inside a volcano

Redwoods

Redwood National Park, just south of the California / Oregon border, has the tallest trees in the world.  I had been hearing about those giants for some time, but never expected what I saw.  I could literally drive Large Marge through some of those trees !

Very big tree.

Large Marge almost got stuck again !

Looking up gave me vertigo.

Beautiful Coast near the Redwoods.

A fun (and true) fact is regarding the identification and measurement of the world's tallest tree.  Since the forest is quite dense in places and the trees are so bloody high, it's not always obvious from the ground which tree is the tallest... so what do you think the scientists do when they see a tree that looks taller than the others?  Yes, you are right !  They climb it, and drop a measuring tape from the top.  This has been the only known method of measuring those beasts.  And just a few years ago, they found a new tallest tree in the world - 379 feet tall (the Statue of Liberty is 305 feet from the ground).  The other interesting fact about the tallest tree is that the experts refuse to disclose the exact location of the tree - for good reasons: they don't want tourists to get anywhere near it !  Darn tourists.

Napa Valley

After the Redwoods came Napa Valley, home of some of the best wines in the United States (and the world)!  I spent the day going from winery to winery, tasting reds and whites, leisuring in the sun, it was a very relaxing day.

Enjoying a sunny day at the winery. 

Might have had one glass too many. 

Ready to be harvested.

Inside the cellars.

San Francisco

San Francisco... such a unique city!  Why would someone build a city in the mountains like that, totally insane!  But it makes for one of the most beautiful cityscapes in the world.  Such a view, and I was blessed with an amazing sunset.  I highly recommend this city to anyone.

View of Golden Gate Bridge and city

Golden Gate Bridge

San Francisco.

Sunset and fog.

Beautiful sunset.

Lake Tahoe

After San Francisco, I drove to Lake Tahoe.  Another famous lake perched over 6,000 feet in the mountains.  The most amazing thing about the lake is how clear it is - you can probably see clearly up to 70 feet down.  Otherwise, I think it's a little bit overrated.  It's a beautiful lake, but nowhere near as majestic as the likes of Lake Louise or Crater Lake.  I might be speaking out of line here, since I have never visited in the winter - I hear that Tahoe is a stellar ski destination.

Another very small town ! 

Lake Tahoe and its crystal waters.

Mono Lake

Mono Lake is just at the entrance of Yosemite National Park, in California.  It is very unique in that it has salt sculptures coming from the sea bottom and making the lake shore look like a scene from Star Wars.  Perhaps one of the rare times where man's lack of consideration for nature has actually improved its visual appearance... let me explain.  In the early 1900's, as Los Angeles was rapidly expanding, they started tapping into faraway lakes and basins to supply water to the City's residents.  Mono Lake was thence drained of over 1/3rd of its water.  As it sits on a huge salt flat, the water had a high concentration of salt - and salt sculptures had been forming on the sea floor near the shores... with the draining, the water levels dropped over 50 feet, exposing the top of those magnificent sculptures.  And now, I can take pictures of it !  Thankfully, the state has wisened up and forced the city of LA to find other sources for its water to protect whatever's left of the Lake's habitat.

Salt sculptures and mountains.

Mono Lake in the morning.

Yosemite

Yosemite by itself is magnificent.  It has stunning waterfalls, famous mountain vistas (including the Half Dome which will be easily recognized by lovers of adventure games from the 1980s and 1990s), valleys and all sorts of natural goodies.  But it didn't strike me as unique in any particular way.  I suppose that after 3 months of exploring mountains, valleys and waterfalls, my standard has gone up a bit.  So I will leave it at that.

Bridal Veil Falls. 

Half-Dome

Death Valley

Now, Death Valley is a completely different story.  I can only think of one word to define it appropriately:

OMG (wait is that 3 words? 3 letters? whatever)

The Park is quite accurately named.  Nothing lives there except for some weeds, cactus, scorpions and really funny-looking little rats.  And it's hot as hell down there.  Silly me had decided to take a shortcut (very bumpy, unpaved) and for 45 miles (took 2.5 hours) I became religious again as I was praying for Large Marge to make it to the other end without getting stranded (I made it, thank God).

But what a scenery!  A valley of dunes, salt flats, sand surrounded by gigantic mountains, all different shades of white yellow and orange - it is difficult to believe that I was on the same planet as everyone else I know.

The most amazing thing about the park is called Badwater Basin.  Badwater Basin is the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere (282 below sea level).  And as you descend into it, you see a majestic lake spanning miles of the valley in every direction.  And then you get to the basin... and ???!?!?!?! Where is the water ?  There is no water !  What I thought was water was in fact an ocean of salt reflecting the sun.  It is dry as a bone down there - I can only imagine the thirsty explorers of centuries past crying salvation at the view of this magnificent lake, only to die of thirst at the bottom of it.  Incredible.

And to top it all, there was Dante's View - a very steep road leading to a summit with commanding views of the Valley.  Quite simply the most beautiful view of my entire trip so far (with sunset bonus).  Feel free to judge for yourself.

Driving down into the Valley of Death. 

Sand Dunes

Salt floor of the Badwater Basin.

I can't believe it's not water !

Windy road to Dante's view. 

Amazing view at sunset. 

Sunset addict.

Amazing skies - look at the colours !

Las Vegas

Which leads me to my current location, Las Vegas !  Another world again, where all your dreams come true - but for a hefty sum of money.  I have been here for 6 days, and have done it all in excessive moderation... gambling, drinking, dancing, vegas shows, great restaurants, pizza at 5am to cure the hangover... I have had a great time and feel recharged for the next step of my trip.  So I leave tomorrow...  Bye bye Vegas !  You owe me big time.

Monster fun. 

Madame Tussaud's wax museum. 

Venitian gondolas. 

What happens in Vegas... ends up on the internet !!!

Until next time,

DMR

Glaciers and Oceans

Day 76

Current Location: Portland, Oregon (USA)

Total Countries visited: 2

Total Miles Driven: 11,596

Fellow followers -

It is the end of an era.

A crime has been committed.  The culprit, myself.  The weapon, a hair clipper.

The victim: Mr. Beard.

Unsuspecting beard about to be slaughtered.

The crime scene.

And yet he walks free.

Farewell, Mr. Beard.  As a token of gratitude for all those great moments we have spent together, I have composed the following obituary:

ODE TO A BEARD

by Moebius

My dearest, grizzly beard

Why have you left me so soon ?

You might have made me look weird

But you always made the girls swoon

I know you will never forgive

The atrocities I made you endure

For you may no longer live

Except for what ended up in the sewer

At times I found you irritating

A little bit rough, that's for sure

You seemed to enjoy giving me the feeling

That I was licking sandpaper

I must ask for forgiveness, mon ami

To cut you out like that was cruel

You will never stop growing on me

And for that I will always miss you.

Trip update

I am now in Portland Oregon, finally heading South towards kinder climates.  The last section of my trip has been a lot of fun.  I finished the Northernmost portion of my trip in the mountains and glaciers, then headed West towards the Ocean.

Canadian Rockies

The Canadian Rockies are fully as majestic as the American ones, with a nice bonus - lots of glaciers and snow-capped peaks all year long.  I really enjoyed my trek through the Banff and Jasper National Parks.  The towns of Banff and Jasper are lovely resort towns with plenty of amenities and night entertainment, close to most of the hiking trails.

The most amazing and famous of all the sights is definitely Lake Louise which is almost fluorescent turquoise because of the minerals picked up by the glacier water that falls in the lake.  I have never seen water so clear or colourful.

Whistler is also a fun resort town, and the village is filled with shops, restaurants and bars.  I  promised myself to go back in the Winter for some great skiing.

Train heading to Banff

Lake Louise and its turquoise waters 

Lake Moraine

Angel Glacier in Jasper Park

Mountain scenery in Jasper Park

Mt. Robson, highest peak in the Canadian Rockies

Great West Coast Cities

After I crossed the mountains I headed straight towards Vancouver - and the Ocean.  I was very anxious to get to Vancouver... quite a milestone on my trip.  I have crossed North America from coast to coast, quite an accomplishment !

Vancouver is a town gifted by nature.  It has everything of beauty - mountains and water, all accessible to walkers and drivers alike.  My visit was short but memorable.  I will be back.

Old lantern in Gastown

Beautiful Fall day on Granville Island

After Vancouver, I headed West (is that possible) to Vancouver Island and Victoria (the capital of British Columbia).  Vancouver Island is a great little place, generally more remote and untouched than the mainland (it takes a ferry to get there), with pretty gardens, wineries at every corner and amazing fish restaurants.

Butchart Gardens

Find the intruder

Butterfly getting hot n heavy

Gorgeous Victoria sunset

The next town down the coast was Seattle.  Seattle has some similarities with Vancouver, being so close to it - however it has a  slightly different feel.  Perhaps not quite as gifted by nature, Seattle more than makes up for it in arts and culture.  The people of Seattle truly make the difference (at least they made an impression on me).  I spent a few days there to rest a little and soak up in the welcoming vibe.  Unfortunately the weather did not cooperate  - I had 4 or 5 straight days of rain, perhaps my longest bout of foul weather since I left Chicago in August.  Perhaps Seattle was giving me the cold shoulder for not visiting more often... I shall be back, under sunnier skies !

I wonder if they can deliver to Large Marge

The famous Pike Place Market

And that brings me to my current location of Portland, Oregon.  The road between Seattle and Portland was beautiful, following the coast, with rugged beaches and cliffs overlooking the ocean.

Playing at the beach

Cannon Beach

Portland is truly a world of its own.  I had heard of its reputation, but never expected it to be this "weird".  It is a very liberal city - homeless and semi-homeless are everywhere, with adult establishments neighboring the most conservative restaurants and landmarks in some kind of makeshift harmony.  Everything fits but not quite.  Nevertheless, I had a great time here - partying it up on Saturday night, meeting some great locals who showed me a jewel of a little Motown Bar called the Candlelight, and hiking up the scenic trail earlier this afternoon.

Portland Saturday Market, largest in the country.

A world of peace, minutes from downtown.

Monster even made a friend.

One notable thing to mention is that on my way back from the bar yesterday (I will not comment on my state of sobriety) I literally stumbled into the "Occupy Portland" tent city - hundreds of protesters had set up their tents in a park downtown, all under the watchful eye of the authorities.  It may have been past midnight but many people were still up, wired on coffee, and strategerizing about how to take over the world (or at least get rid of rich people and the government).  Somehow I stayed there for about 3 hours, chatting up some very interesting folks, trying to understand their state of mind (I also showed my support for the cause by washing some dishes and helping make coffee).  I really do agree with the cause, but I don't necessarily agree with the way they go at it.  There were a lot of drugs going on (not for me, thanks) and one of the folks I spoke with had been contaminated by a dirty needle while picking up the trash.  I also heard of daily fights, theft, and otherwise shady individuals lurking for some kind of prey.  Either way, I'm not sure if it opened my eyes, I left the area unconvinced.  I hope they clean up their act a little bit, for the sake of change - otherwise it will be hard to take them very seriously.

99% of the way there.

I wonder how they will make it stop.

That's it!  I am heading South again soon, destination San Francisco !

All the best,

DMR